What to Think About Vegan Leather
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) loudly proclaims that vegan leather is pretty much the new black. It's cool, it's ethical, and it goes with everything.
Vegan leather, which is not real leather at all, has been around since the 19th century when enterprising Germans made a version of artificial leather out of paper pulp.
Is Vegan Leather the Same Thing as Faux Leather, PU Leather, and Pleather?
Mostly, yes. These names largely describe the same underlying idea, non-animal material made to look and feel like leather, and brands tend to pick whichever term suits their marketing. That said, there are a few real distinctions worth knowing:
| Term | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Vegan leather | The broadest umbrella term. Anything made without animal hide, whether that's plastic-based or genuinely plant-based (cork, pineapple, cactus, mushroom). |
| Faux leather | A general, older term for imitation leather, almost always synthetic (PU or PVC). |
| PU leather | Specifically polyurethane-coated fabric. One of the two most common synthetic types. |
| Pleather | Slang shorthand for "plastic leather," typically PVC-based. Used interchangeably with faux leather. |
| Leatherette | An older, often upholstery-industry term for the same synthetic materials. |
The one meaningful split to remember: "vegan leather" as a marketing term covers both cheap plastic coatings and genuinely innovative plant-based materials, while "PU leather," "faux leather," and "pleather" almost always mean the plastic version specifically.
What is Vegan Leather?
Vegan leather is created from non-animal sources. Nowadays, vegan leathers are mostly sourced from textile-polymer composite microfibers, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane, although a few are made from kelp or cork. Some varieties are also produced from glazed cotton.
While on the surface it seems like vegan leather is a good alternative to using animal hide leathers, the truth is much more complicated.
Proponents of vegan leathers claim using non-animal sources to create leather-like products is the perfect answer to an ethical question posed by animal slaughter.
However, how ethical are vegan leathers and how durable is vegan leather, really? You decide.
Is Vegan Leather Just Plastic?
For most of what's sold as vegan leather today, essentially yes. PU and PVC, the two materials behind the large majority of vegan leather on the market, are both plastics. A polyurethane or PVC coating is applied to a fabric backing, then textured and colored to resemble leather. So when someone asks whether they're just wearing plastic, the honest answer for a typical vegan leather jacket or bag is: largely, yes. The exceptions are the newer plant-based materials covered below, which are a genuinely different category, not just a different name for the same plastic.
Does Vegan Leather Develop a Patina?
No, and this is one of the most meaningful practical differences between vegan and traditional leather. Patina is what happens as real leather absorbs oils from your hands, gets exposed to light, and flexes with use, gradually darkening and developing a richer, more individual character over months and years.
Vegan leather doesn't do this, because it isn't a natural, absorbent material the way animal hide is. Plastic-based vegan leathers don't age gracefully at all; instead of deepening in color and softening, they tend to crack, peel, and dull, especially at fold lines and high-contact points like handles or corners. This typically starts showing within a year or two of regular use, sometimes sooner with cheaper coatings. Plant-based versions like cork or Piñatex hold up differently and don't crack the same way, but they still don't develop the color-deepening, hand-polished look that's the actual definition of patina. If patina is something you specifically want from a piece over time, vegan leather isn't going to give you that, regardless of which type you choose.
What is Vegan Leather Used For?
Before we delve into how vegan leathers are produced, let's take a look at the many ways they are used in place of authentic leather. Vegan leather can be substituted for just about anything traditional leather is used for, excepting hard-use items like saddles.
Fashion designers like Stella McCartney and Hugo Boss are creating lines of clothing and accessories that use vegan leathers exclusively. There are lines of footwear, handbags, backpacks, and many other items that utilize this man-made material, and the trend toward increased use of vegan leathers is continuing.
Because it is man-made, vegan leather can be created in any color, or shade, of the rainbow and in a variety of textures, from faux crocodile or ostrich to shiny patent or even glitter-infused styles.
This level of versatility makes vegan leathers very useful in the fashion industry, where trends are constantly on the move. Designers are limited only by their imaginations, as nearly any color or texture of vegan leather can be manufactured according to customer preference.
However, it's important to note that vegan leather is not as timeless as traditional leather, having more of a trendy vibe. It also does not wear as well, deteriorating in shape and substance at a much quicker rate than traditional leather.
Because it is mass-produced, vegan leathers don't have the timeless, artisanal quality that attracts buyers to traditional leather. While some vegan leathers work hard to maintain a conventional leather look or feel, others don't try to hide their origins, looking much like the colored plastic they are.
How Vegan Leather is Made
Most vegan leather is made from plastic or petroleum-based synthetics, although very rarely they are manufactured from natural sources such as cotton, cork, or tree bark.
To make a polyurethane leather, a polyurethane coating is applied to a base fabric. A color coat is added once this process is completed, and then a texture is pressed into the top surface to finish it off.
The manufacture and disposal of at least one of these components, PVC-based synthetics, produces the toxic and volatile compound dioxin. Dioxin, which can be found in the anatomy of most humans and animals nowadays, has been found to increase cancer risk.
Because vegan leathers don't fully biodegrade like natural products, they can produce microparticles that enter the food and water chain by being ingested by sea creatures and animals.
As it begins to break down, vegan leather pours phthalates into the environment, which are known carcinogens, hormone disruptors, and can cause breathing problems and birth defects.
A Word of Caution: "Recycled Leather" Is Not Vegan
One label worth watching out for is recycled or "bonded" leather. Despite the word recycled sounding eco-conscious and vegan-adjacent, this material is made by grinding up genuine leather scraps and fibers and bonding them back together, usually with a polyurethane coating. It still contains real animal hide, just in reprocessed form, so it isn't vegan at all. If avoiding animal products matters to you, check the label carefully rather than assuming "recycled" means plant-based or synthetic.
Newer Plant-Based Alternatives Worth Knowing
If you decide to take a chance on a vegan leather product, try to select items that have been created from natural resources, such as bark, cork, or even pineapples.
You read that right, pineapples can be made into leather.
A company called Piñatex has discovered a way to take the waste products from pineapple farming and create a sustainable, durable alternative to traditional leather. The owner of the company, Carmen Hijosa, estimates that 50 percent of the world's leather demand could be met using pineapple farming waste from the top 10 pineapple-producing countries.
Piñatex isn't alone anymore. A handful of other plant-based materials have emerged as genuine alternatives to plastic-based vegan leather:
- Mushroom leather (Mylo and similar brands): grown from mycelium, the root structure of fungi, then processed into sheets. Several major fashion houses have experimented with it in limited releases.
- Cactus leather (Desserto): made from nopal cactus grown without irrigation on marginal land, then processed into a leather-like textile.
- Cork leather: harvested from the bark of cork oak trees without harming the tree, naturally water-resistant and has been used in small leather goods for years.
The only current problem with these newer materials is cost. A jacket made from Piñatex was priced at a whopping $860 in 2018. Hopefully, as more people become aware of these sources, that cost will decrease, making the products available to a wider audience.
Caring for Vegan Leather
Vegan leather doesn't need conditioning the way genuine leather does, and that's not really a point in its favor, it's simply because there's nothing there to condition. Real leather is a natural, porous material that loses its own oils over time and needs replenishing with a conditioner to stay supple. Plastic-based vegan leather has no natural oils to lose in the first place. Care for it is mostly about prevention:
- Wipe down with a damp cloth and mild soap; avoid harsh solvents
- Keep it away from direct heat and prolonged sun exposure, which accelerates cracking
- Avoid folding it sharply in the same place repeatedly, since that's where cracking tends to start first
- Some vegan leather protectant sprays exist, but they slow deterioration rather than reverse it the way conditioning restores genuine leather
While traditional leather is infinitely more durable, beautiful, and long-lived than its vegan counterparts, there may be a place for ethically-sourced vegan leather in the manufacture of limited-use or trendy items in the coming years.
FAQs About Vegan Leather
- +What is vegan leather made of?
- Vegan leather is made from non-animal sources, primarily synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). These plastic-based alternatives are coated onto fabrics to mimic the texture and appearance of traditional leather. While common, these synthetics can release harmful chemicals like dioxins and phthalates over time. More sustainable options include natural sources such as cork, glazed cotton, kelp, mushroom mycelium, cactus, or agricultural waste like pineapple leaves, as used in Piñatex. Though marketed as ethical, not all vegan leathers are environmentally friendly, making it crucial to understand the materials used in each product.
- +Is vegan leather the same as faux leather or PU leather?
- Largely, yes, though vegan leather is the broader umbrella term. Faux leather and PU leather almost always refer specifically to plastic-based synthetics. Vegan leather covers those same plastics but also includes genuinely different plant-based materials like cork, Piñatex, and mushroom or cactus leather, so not every vegan leather is a faux or PU leather in the strict sense.
- +Is vegan leather better than real leather?
- Vegan leather is often considered more ethical than real leather because it avoids animal products. However, it's generally less durable and environmentally problematic if made from plastics like PU or PVC. Traditional leather outlasts vegan alternatives and has a timeless appeal, while vegan leather trends toward being cheaper, more customizable, and suited for short-term or fashion-forward use.
- +Does vegan leather last long?
- Vegan leather does not last as long as traditional leather. While it may look similar, it tends to deteriorate more quickly, losing shape and texture with use. Most types, especially plastic-based versions, are prone to cracking and peeling over time, making vegan leather more suitable for occasional or fashion-focused wear rather than daily use.
- +Is vegan leather environmentally friendly?
- Not all vegan leathers are environmentally friendly. Most are made from petroleum-based materials like PVC or PU, which do not biodegrade and can release toxins into the environment. More sustainable vegan leathers use natural materials such as cork, bark, mushroom mycelium, or pineapple fibers. Choosing plant-based options reduces environmental harm but often comes at a higher price.
- +Is vegan leather waterproof?
- Most vegan leather is water-resistant but not fully waterproof. Plastic-based varieties like PU and PVC can repel water initially, but exposure over time may lead to damage, especially around seams or edges. Plant-based vegan leathers vary in water tolerance and often require additional treatment to resist moisture effectively.
- +Does vegan leather patina?
- No. Patina is the natural sheen and aging effect that occurs over time as real leather absorbs oils and undergoes wear. Since most vegan leathers are synthetic or plant-based composites, they lack the organic structure needed to form a patina, often aging by cracking or peeling instead of improving in appearance.
- +Does vegan leather breathe?
- Most vegan leathers do not breathe as well as traditional leather. Traditional leather is naturally porous, allowing airflow and moisture regulation. In contrast, synthetic vegan leathers made from PU or PVC are essentially plastic coatings on fabric, which trap heat and moisture. Some plant-based vegan leathers offer better breathability but still fall short of real leather's natural ventilation.
- +Is "recycled leather" vegan?
- No. Recycled or bonded leather is made from genuine leather scraps and fibers that have been reprocessed and bonded together, usually with a polyurethane coating. It still contains real animal hide, so despite the eco-friendly sound of the name, it does not qualify as vegan.
1 Response
Tom Matsaev
I’d love a vegan leather case!
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